The three Calvados appellations - Part 1

• The expression of the terroirs

The typicality of a Calvados depends on the soil, the fruit varieties, the fermentation of the musts, the distillation method and the aging process.

The role of soil has long been approached solely on a physicochemical level without taking into account the soil life essential to the expression of terroir. The expression of terroir results from the interaction between the microflora and the tree's root system. Well-aerated soil facilitates the development of the root system, which allows the plant to anchor itself in the soil and absorb the water and nutrients (mineral salts and trace elements) it needs. Fauna (bacteria, earthworms, and small animals) is responsible for the porosity of the soil, and therefore for the entry of air and water deep down, and the microflora is responsible for the formation of nutrients that can be assimilated by plants. Until the 1970s, nothing hindered the expression of terroir in wine production. This was when a revolution in agricultural practices took place that seriously disrupted soil life: intensive agriculture. This revolution has taken over a significant part of viticulture. It offered winemakers the opportunity to guarantee their yields and save their harvests through the massive use of phytosanitary products, powerful pesticides, the use of weedkillers, and chemical fertilizers. These practices have wiped out the fauna, leading in some cases to the total disappearance of biological activity. Nutrients can only form if the soil is well aerated by the fauna. With the disappearance of soil life, the nutrients that the plant can no longer obtain from the soil are brought to it in the form of fertilizers. The connection to the soil disappears at the same time as the expression of the terroir. Since the roots of the vine can no longer access the bedrock, the wine is no longer a terroir wine but a varietal wine like those produced everywhere.

The pre-orchard and the absence of chemical treatments ensure a very active soil life. The revolution in agricultural practices has not affected fruit production from high-stem orchards. In low-stem orchards, the use of chemicals has remained very moderate and has never suffocated the soil. Calvados producers have therefore not faced the problems of winegrowers who have adopted so-called modern cultivation practices.

The relationships between soil, bacteria, and tree varieties are too complex to be copied. By contributing to the product's unique character, a living soil ensures its protection against foreign competition. It gives the product a unique character. Many countries produce cider brandy, but none have managed to imitate Calvados. Some producers, particularly American ones, have imported cider apple trees from Normandy. They may produce fine brandies, but they will necessarily express a different terroir.

Can we determine where a Calvados comes from when tasting blind? What role does the soil play in the expression of terroir? For all those bored by trivialization, who find pleasure in products with a strong character, the appellation of origin combined with good soil management practices offer a guarantee. An Appellation of Origin product must express its terroir, revealing its soul. The fruits wrest from the soil an expression of the terroir, which fermentation without exogenous yeasts followed by distillation transforms into aromas. As soon as these aromas reach the nostrils, the receptor cells send a message to the brain, which identifies them. The mouth normally only confirms the information given by the nose. An Appellation of Origin product must express its terroir, revealing its soul. Calvados displays a fascinating power of evocation. It reflects the region where it was born and the people who produced it. For those familiar with the Pays d'Auge and Domfrontais, two homogeneous areas with identifiable characteristics, it is not difficult to identify the appellation. The expression of terroir is strong. For the generic Calvados appellation, the exercise is much more difficult because the production area, which brings together eleven regions with often specific characteristics, is not homogeneous.